On Day 1 of Ted & Tim's excellent bicycle adventure from Cleveland to New Philadelphia, using the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail, we rode 44 miles to Akron and traveled through time on a path whose future still is unfolding.
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CLEVELAND, Ohio - We began our journey on Lake Erie's Whiskey Island and finished in the Tuscarawas River valley, covering 101 miles on bicycles and mostly along the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail.
We traveled, in a sense, through time on a historic path whose future still is unfolding.
We met hikers, bikers, fishermen and families making full use of the Towpath and its adjacent parks. It is for them that the historic path is being preserved and extended a little at a time.
Plain Dealer artist Ted Crow and I biked all 84 miles of the current Towpath, plus a few more at either end that connected us from Cleveland where we work, through Akron where I was born, and all the way to New Philadelphia where Ted grew up.
We loved every mile of it.
Ted and I split our ride into two days so we would have time to stop and talk to folks. We're both "century cyclers,'' meaning we've finished 100-mile rides, and we're accustomed to whizzing past scenery and around hikers. We go far, but we miss a lot.
This was a different experience. We took our time to really enjoy some breathtaking sights, learn about the 308-mile canal's crucial role in our history, and to enjoy some of the nicest folks you'll meet in Northeast Ohio. Hikers and bikers are a happy lot.
Ted and I both maintain strong connections to the Towpath. Ted rides the northern section regularly. I grew up hiking and exploring trails around Akron. A bit of my family history is memorialized there.
DAY 1: Cleveland to Akron, 44 miles
Navigating Cleveland
We began our ride by dipping hands into Lake Erie at Wendy Park. Looking out at the old Coast Guard station, we took a selfie and I plucked a soft worn stone out of the water and carried with me the entire ride for good luck.
"What could go wrong?'' I asked as I tucked the stone into a satchel.
Well, a few things, as it turned out. But not many.
Getting started was easy. Getting to where we were going was not, and that is a metaphor for what has kept the Towpath from reaching its natural destination at Lake Erie. For 20 years, officials from a wide range of agencies have been vexed ever since about how to get the Towpath through a maze of scarred industrial land in Cleveland.
"It's a leadership issue. I'm not proud of what we've done here. It has taken longer to build the Towpath Trail than it took to build the canal itself,'' said Cleveland Metroparks Commissioner Dan T. Moore III.
The canal was built between 1825 and 1832.
On paper, there's a planned trail between Wendy Park through Irishtown Bend to Towpath's current, official terminus at Fire Station 21 on the corner Scranton and Carter Roads.
That location heads the Scranton/Flats trail section, which opened last year and cost $9.1 million to build an oasis that is less than a mile long. Granted, it is beautiful, with a swath of flowers and grasses and small trees on either side, and a deck at river's edge that offers sweeping, peaceful views of the Cleveland skyline.
The day we visited, a trio of veteran bird watchers had binoculars and cameras aimed at a peregrine falcon nest under the Hope Memorial (Lorain-Carnegie) Bridge.
The tiny Scranton/Flats section goes nowhere, ending near the Innerbelt Bridge currently under construction.
At the northern tip of what is planned to be the final link, a $6 million bike and pedestrian bridge is planned from Whiskey Island over railroad tracks to the Flats, a link that will prevent the roundabout way we took to get to the Scranton/Flats trail - through Gordon Square and down West 25th and Franklin Boulevard.
The final two miles to Wendy Park and Whiskey Island is expected to take two years to build and cost $17.5 million. I recently met Moore at Fire Station 21 and asked him, "Why bother?'' That's a lot of money and Scranton/Flats seemed like a good place for the trail to start or stop. He leaned forward and grew somewhat emotional about a cause that is near and dear to his heart.
"Wendy Park is named after my daughter. I love the idea of it ending there,'' he said, choking back tears as he recalled a daughter who was killed in a skiing accident.
Moore then stated firmly something larger is at stake than his personal gratification.
"The Towpath should be viewed as a connection between the Ohio River and Lake Erie,'' he said. "The important thing is to make it an iconic bike ride like the Katy Trail that goes across Missouri, and the C&O Canal Trail that goes from Cumberland, Maryland, to Washington, D.C.''
More Cleveland gaps
South of the Scranton/Flats trail, two more gaps remain in Cleveland. The next is between the Scranton/Flats and Tremont. After winding our way to East 14th Street in Tremont, we picked up a nondescript paved path at Quigley Road, which dove down a hill toward the massive ArcelorMittal steel mill. The trail looped behind Steelyard Commons shopping center, then stalled out again at an abandoned lot.
A short jog down Jennings Road was not without peril of traffic and road debris. A left on Harvard took us across the first of many bridges over the Cuyahoga River at the Harvard Trailhead. Here, the Towpath Trail began again.
With the exception of a brief road stretch in Akron and a few streets to navigate in Massillon - both of which are well marked -- the Towpath winds more than 80 miles to Bolivar in Tuscarawas County, where riding becomes dicey once again.
That was a long way off.
History approaches
The grit of the city melted away with astonishing swiftness beyond Harvard Road, but not before one quick hint of the city's industrial core. In the first mile, a small outdoor display offered lessons in the life of a steelworker, including a vintage stamping press and old lockers.
It was an appropriate reminder of what the canal really meant to Ohio, which had only been a state for 22 years when construction began. Northeast Ohio was mostly wilderness and farms when the canal was built alongside and between the northern flowing Cuyahoga River, across the continental divide to the southern flowing Tuscarawas River. The Cuyahoga ends at Lake Erie. The Tuscarawas empties into the Ohio River.
Thus, thousands of tons of agricultural and industrial products and other goods could be shipped to and from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi Delta before the arrival of trains.
Without the canal, Cleveland and Akron might never have become the cities they are today. Had the canal connected instead to the Grand River, as some originally proposed, the Terminal Tower might be in Fairport Harbor.
Hikers, bikers and runners on the Towpath travel in the wake of history. The reminders are sometimes subtle, but always present.
Following the canal
The paved path south first hugs the east bank of the Cuyahoga River in the Ohio & Erie Canal Reservation.
The canal first comes into view a couple miles down the path. Just up the hill on a side path is the CanalWay Center on E. 49th St. in Cuyahoga Heights, which serves as a visitors center and gateway to the 306-acre reservation. The access path offers a nice vista of the valley, and the canal basin itself has enough water to attract fishermen.
As we approached the first of our many crossings under (and over) I-77, a restored lock came into view, offering a surprising perspective on how narrow the old canal boats had to be in order to pass through the locks, which raised or lowered the boats as the terrain changed so the canal could remain relatively level.
It is worth noting the canal boats did not have motors. They were towed on ropes attached to teams of draft horses, which walked on the accompanying path - a towpath. Families lived and worked on the canal boats including, as a young man, President James A. Garfield, who grew up near Orange.
The mostly flat terrain is good news for bikers and hikers, too. But man had other plans for us in Valley View. Two majestic white, cable-stayed bridges over Warner and Granger Roads let Towpath users avoid plenty of traffic, but at the cost of scaling a couple quick inclines. Not helping matters was the smell of lunch cooking at a nearby Big Boy restaurant. The area offers plenty of parking for easy access to the Towpath.
One of two steel-cable Towpath Trail bridges in Valley View, with the I-480 bridge in the distance.Tim Warsinskey, The Plain Dealer
We encountered so many bridges, few more impressive than the massive I-480 bridges towering over the Towpath. Thousands of daily commuters probably have no idea how peaceful is the valley below.
Much of the towpath survived in various conditions for more than 150 years before area park systems took interest. Richard Miller, 68, of Parma Heights was biking with his daughter, Jill, in Brecksville when he paused to tell us of hiking there 40 years ago.
"A lot of people in the '60s wouldn't use it because it wasn't well known. It was mostly a dirt path,'' he said. "It's so much better now that it's paved and cleaned up. I come down here whenever I get the chance.''
Transportation of another sort is available at the Rockside Road entrance to the Brecksville Reservation. The Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railway's northern terminus offers train rides to Akron and back on a restored passenger train, about 90 minutes each way with numerous stops for hikers and bikers to get on and off.
A popular day on the trails is to bike one way, and take the train back for just $3. Riders can flag the train at various platforms in the parks between Rockside and downtown Akron at 27 Ridge St.
The Towpath along Canal Road hugs the water-filled canal on its west bank. We spotted numerous blue herons perched stoically on branches of fallen trees, poised to stab unsuspecting fish.
Canal Road is home of the Cuyahoga Valley National Park's Canal Exploration Center, one of the best stops on the Towpath. A fully restored, operational lock sits outside the two-story building that houses a variety of interactive and hands-on exhibits that are kid-friendly. The replica general store has several period items for sale such as hard candies and fruit-flavored vinegar. When we visited on a slow afternoon, Interpretative Ranger Jackie Zevenbergen offered an extensive tour.
Outside the center, Jane Langston of Twinsburg was biking with her children, Madison, 9, and Carson, 6.
"We just picked up brochures for the kids to be Junior Rangers,'' she said. "They like to check out the canal locks and the big bridges and the museum stops.''
In the national park, the Towpath alternates between crushed gravel and pavement, and was well-maintained throughout Cuyahoga and Summit Counties. Despite a wet early summer, the gravel sections were smooth.
Bicycle Boom Town
The deeper we headed into the CVNP, the more woods and rolling terrain we encountered. The feel of a real trail enveloped as we sometimes lost contact with the canal and followed closer to the Cuyahoga River. A beautiful, winding boardwalk approaching a beaver marsh was one of my favorite sights. Bump-outs on the marsh allowed visitors to stop and watch for birds and beavers.
Workers maintain the Towpath Trail in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park. The trail alternates between crushed gravel and paved sections, with a few wood boardwalks. The trail was in excellent condition in Cuyahoga and Summit counties, despite heavy rains earlier this summer. Tim Warsinskey, The Plain Dealer
The canal at times was little more than a muddy ditch, or a tree-filled depression until, suddenly, a lock would appear. The most stunning lock was Deep Lock south of Peninsula, so named for its enormous size so that it could lift and lower boats as much as 17 feet. It also is a short hike from a quarry that supplied Berea sandstone for the canal that was, in the early 19th century, an engineering marvel.
The Towpath there is removed from urban life, but still easily accessible and can become crowded in the heart of the CVNP north of Akron. A visitor's center at Boston Mills is a popular attraction, as is Szalay's Farm & Market near Peninsula.
Bike rentals are available at several shops near the park, the busiest of which is Century Cycles in Peninsula, which has more than 50 bikes available. We had not planned to visit the shop until my front derailleur bent out of alignment and was in need of repair, as it happened, just outside of Peninsula.
I have visited the postcard-worthy town all my life and have never seen it more vibrant than in recent years. During most weekends, the streets are full of hikers and bikers who hop off the trail and come into town, or begin their journey there.
"We have seen growth every year because of Towpath,'' Century Cycles manager Doug Charnock said as he straightened my derailleur. Charnock has worked there 17 years. "The Towpath is getting more and more popular.
"It's an easy park to get to. It's safe. You don't have to do an epic, 12-mile hike to see something really cool. Brandywine Falls is a short hike, and so is Blue Hen Falls, but you can do long hikes if you want to.''
Intersecting with home
Adding to the flow are numerous scenic paths originating in the Summit Metro Parks that criss-cross the Towpath.
One of those trails, the hilly and pristine Schumacher Trail, connects with the Towpath near a dramatic foot bridge over the Cuyahoga River. Just beyond the bridge is a bench with a plaque dedicated to my parents, Jo Anne and Erland, who taught their four boys the joys of fishing and hiking and exploring these same parks. My mother was a park volunteer who completed the Summit Metro Parks hiking spree every year, well into her 80s. She was a Towpath regular.
After a brief visit to the bench, Ted and I pedaled toward our Day 1 destination, the Scenic Railway train station on Ridge Street, near the top of a long incline into downtown Akron - the toughest climb of the Towpath.
One of our final stops was to say goodbye to the Cuyahoga River at its southern point in Akron, at the intersection of Portage Path and Merriman Roads. There stands a massive bronze statue of a Native American carrying a canoe above his head. For hundreds of years before settlers ever dreamed of building a canal, Native Americans portaged their canoes eight miles on a well-worn path to the Tuscarawas River and beyond.
We came along for the ride much later.
Tomorrow: Day 2, from Akron to New Philadelphia, plus 10 things to see and do on the Towpath Trail.
This video is a quick peek at Day 2.